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Rochester’s Trees

June 30th, 2009

Trees have been vital to Rochester since the city’s found­ing. It was a prac­ti­cally impen­e­tra­ble for­est when the first set­tlers arrived. The den­sity of trees made the trip from Stone-Tolan House, now 2370 East Avenue, to the Gene­see Falls a dif­fi­cult, full-day’s jour­ney, even uti­liz­ing Seneca Indian trails. Today, that four-mile dis­tance can be tra­versed by car in 10 min­utes. Trees then were so plen­ti­ful that early set­tlers built roads from them. Plank Road, though smoothly paved today, bears the name of its orig­i­nal com­po­si­tion. Another wooden high­way was what became East Hen­ri­etta Road today.  It was the for­est of trees that saved Rochester from total destruc­tion by the British in the War of 1812. The small vil­lage of Buf­falo, vul­ner­a­bly located on the flat, sandy shores of Lake Erie, was pil­laged and burned to the ground on Decem­ber 30 and 31, 1813. Lewis­ton was sim­i­larly bru­tally attacked and burned. On May 14, 1814, the British fleet –con­sist­ing of eight large ships, sev­eral smaller ones, gun­boats, and barges –anchored at Lake Ontario off the mouth of the Gene­see River.  At the time, Rochester­ville was a log-cabin vil­lage of 300 peo­ple. With help from a few neigh­bor­ing vil­lages, Rochester­ville mus­tered 33 men, 20 horses, and one can­non and took the whole night to move its mea­ger assem­blage to the area that is now Char­lotte. The next day was very foggy, and except for a few shared can­non shots, it was basi­cally a stand­off between the British and Americans.

Rein­force­ments for the Amer­i­cans arrived on the sec­ond day, but they were woe­fully inad­e­quate to the British might, so the Amer­i­cans decided to trick the British on their num­bers by march­ing in cir­cles in and out of the woods, with files of men pass­ing vis­i­bly a num­ber of times through a clear­ing. The British, not know­ing how many troops they faced if they were to land, decided the gains were not worth the bat­tle, and on the third day they sailed on to the east. The for­est had saved Rochester.

Charles Sprague Sar­gent, the first direc­tor of Har­vard University’s Arnold Arbore­tum, called Rochester “a city in a for­est.” It is an apt descrip­tion because the area was orig­i­nally a for­est of red, black, and white oaks; chest­nuts; hick­o­ries; black wal­nuts; beeches; red and sugar maples; bass­woods; tulip trees, and white ashes. Set­tlers gath­ered but­ter­nuts for food from trees that grew along the river.  When the first sawmills were estab­lished at the falls on the Gene­see River, fin­ished lum­ber became avail­able, and the archi­tec­ture that the set­tlers remem­bered from their New Eng­land back­ground, sprouted here. One of the early set­tlers, Ham­let Scran­tom, wrote in 1812, “The coun­try is very pleas­ant and fer­tile, tim­bered with oak, chest­nut, hick­ory, black wal­nut, and white wood, some of enor­mous size. I saw one white-wood log twelve feet long which pro­duced 1000 feet of clapboards.”

In the 1830s, the promi­nent flour miller, Her­vey Ely, planted sugar maples and other trees along the west side of Wash­ing­ton Street for, he said, “shade and dec­o­ra­tion.” They were the first trees in Rochester set out for ornament.

Rochester truly awak­ened to its hor­ti­cul­tural poten­tial in the 1840s. After many trees were cut to clear land for build­ing, replant­ing occurred to dec­o­rate and shade city streets and lawns. The many nurs­eries that devel­oped here were influ­en­tial in this effort. Josiah W. Bis­sell, a nurs­ery­man, was respon­si­ble for plant­ing the first street trees on both sides of East Avenue in the mid-1840s. They were horse chest­nuts. Some peo­ple con­tend that the horses that were hitched to the trees died from eat­ing the bark of the horse chest­nuts. Oth­ers main­tain that the horse chest­nuts died from the horses eat­ing the bark. Per­haps both are true. In any case, the horse chest­nuts had to be replaced with elms, which now, too, have been replaced.

Many devel­op­ers rec­og­nized that street trees enhanced the value of res­i­den­tial prop­er­ties. H. E. Hooker, owner of Hooker Broth­ers Nurs­ery, and devel­oper of Oxford Street, designed the street in 1880 with a mall on which he planted a hybrid cross between Chi­nese white and Japan­ese pur­ple mag­no­lias, which are noted to this day for their del­i­cate color.

George Ell­wanger and Patrick Barry, who built the largest nurs­ery in the world in the mid­dle and late 1800s on 650 acres along Mount Hope Avenue, scoured Europe for fine trees that they could prop­a­gate in Amer­ica. Their efforts can be seen through­out Rochester, par­tic­u­larly in the grand Euro­pean beeches they devel­oped. These include fern-leaved, cop­per, pur­ple, and weep­ing beeches.

At its first orga­ni­za­tional meet­ing on May 7, 1888, the Rochester Parks Com­mis­sion decided to invite the great Amer­i­can land­scape archi­tect, Fred­er­ick Law Olm­sted, and his part­ner, Calvin Vaux, to design a park sys­tem for the city. Their major efforts included Gene­see Val­ley Park, High­land Park, Maple­wood Park, and Seneca Park. Olmsted’s con­cept was to con­nect the parks to other areas of the city by means of a park­way system.

Rochester was the last munic­i­pal park sys­tem designed by the renowned Olm­sted. After he retired, his firm con­tin­ued to do work in Rochester, design­ing Brown Square, Cobb’s Hill Park, Jones Square, Susan B. Anthony Park, Uni­ver­sity of Rochester quad­ran­gle, and sev­eral smaller pub­lic spaces.

In its first annual report, the city’s Parks Com­mis­sion men­tioned street trees and res­i­dents’ efforts to plant trees in front of their houses. By 1894, the Com­mon Coun­cil empow­ered the Park Com­mis­sion to care for exist­ing street trees.

Begin­ning in 1896, the commission’s annual reports record areas that had street trees pruned. The reports also doc­u­ment an ongo­ing bat­tle with tus­sock moths, com­monly called tent cater­pil­lars. Work requested by res­i­dents each year far exceeded the Park Commission’s abil­ity to accom­plish it.  In 1899, the com­mis­sion began to plant trees along streets. By 1915, the Park Com­mis­sion was abol­ished and its duties trans­ferred to the newly orga­nized Depart­ment of Parks.

In the early 1900s, the influ­ence of Rochester’s nurs­eries was appar­ent in the species selec­tions made by the city or planted by devel­op­ers and avail­able to res­i­dents at “low rates.” The Ell­wanger and Barry Nurs­ery noted cer­tain trees in its cat­a­logs as suit­able for parks, avenues, and streets. These included a wide vari­ety of maples, elms, and poplars along with select species of lin­den, larch, horse chest­nut, and locust des­ig­nated as suit­able. Not sur­pris­ingly, these species are still found on city streets, and some con­tinue to be planted.

In the 1950s, the Forestry Divi­sion was mobi­lized to remove elm trees infected by Dutch elm dis­ease. An inven­tory was com­pleted that was a pro­gres­sive man­age­ment approach for the time. The com­mon prac­tice of plant­ing a sin­gle type of tree (mono­cul­ture) along a street or park unfor­tu­nately cre­ated favor­able con­di­tions for the spread of Dutch Elm dis­ease in the Amer­i­can elm. An esti­mated 20,000 Amer­i­can elms along numer­ous res­i­den­tial streets and grand boule­vards in Rochester were lost to the dis­ease over a 15-year period. As a result, sub­se­quent plant­i­ngs included a diver­sity of tree species on a street. In the years to come, how­ever, the prac­tice var­ied depend­ing on deci­sions of the City Forester.

The ice storm of March 1991 had a great impact on Rochester’s urban for­est. Approx­i­mately 14,000 trees were removed and sub­se­quently replaced over a four-year period. The ice storm shaped the future of Rochester’s urban for­est. A tree-planting plan was devel­oped to guide the replant­ing. Key to the plan was inte­grat­ing a diver­sity of tree species along a street to min­i­mize the impact of future events. Plant­ing plans were devel­oped for every street with a selec­tion of trees match­ing a desired visual image and con­sid­er­ing the site char­ac­ter­is­tics.  Rochester’s ver­dant envi­ron­ment of indige­nous flora, exten­sive hor­ti­cul­tural nurs­eries, and mas­ter­fully designed parks has had a pro­found effect on the “city in a for­est” that we know today. The Forestry Divi­sion is com­mit­ted to con­tin­u­ing this legacy of gra­cious, tree-lined streets and glo­ri­ous parks.